Has anyone heard from Chris?
We are looking at some format changes for next year that will require some of the features promised in 3.0 (multiple day events and or two events on one day)
AXTI.me is great software, but if it is abandoned, I am going to have to switch to something else.
All things RM Live
I had an event on Saturday - and again we had continual problems with live results failing to update. We did not have an opportunity to hotspot from a phone, but the dongle self-reported that the connection was solid all day, and during numerous spot tests we were able to browse the web in a separate tab via the mobile broadband,
The disconcerting part is that forcing the sync always returns a "successfully submitted" message, but that may or may not update the results. And if it does update the results, it may or may not continue auto-synching. Often it does auto-sync - for a while, anyway - but sometimes the only way to reestablish RMlive results automatic updating is to force the dongle to disconnect and reconnect, even though the current connection is good and you can watch data flowing both ways continuously.
If somebody keeps an eye on the RMlive site and dicks around with the synching whenever it fails, we can keep the live results going off and on throughout the day. But it sure would be better if this was a set-and-forget thing.
I saw an error banner indicating X number of errors in a row. Sometimes this would then report "all fixed now." and go back to auto updating. Is there a place these errors are logged so I can get better data on what's going on? Thanks.
Everything hardware; timing hardware, networking gear, computers
Curious, is there a reason, you put the entire WAP outside instead of just an antenna? We were planning on using a normal wireless router, located inside the trailer. Its 3 antenna would be relocated outside via extension cables. Is there a reason we should not do this?
Primarily it's because of reliability and reliability. The AP we're using is completely waterproof and designed to be pole mounted outdoors. The antenna we purchased is designed to be used specifically with that access point and is also designed to be pole mounted.
The AP we went with is a Ubiquiti Rocket M2 (now the Ubiquiti AirMax Rocket M2) and the Ubiquiti AirMax Omni 2G10, there's also a 2G13, but honestly it's a little overkill.
For people that try to make reliable networks (things that don't have to be mess with.... ever) this is the way to go. Consumer access points available at big box stores are generally made to fail and sometimes fail after an extraordinarily short amount of time.
Issues, Bugs & Feature Requests
Be sure to search the forum before submitting :-)
This is still an issue for us in our second season with the software. The driver currently in first place on the leader board has not made enough events to qualify, but has enough to meet the w/drops so his points are good. If it matters i'm using the percent scoring not the points table setup.
My current season configuration is
events to qualify 16
max indexed events 0 (was 20 because we planned on running 20) I discoveered this is for the points tabe leaderboards.
max class events 10 (our best 10 of all events for driver)
cone penalty 2
class best time/driver best time
A place to talk about whateeeever you want
Knock on wood but I've not had any false light trips in over a year after the following...5 dBi omni antenna connected to the farmtek controller. $37 purchased from Farmtek with a 12 foot cable. This is positioned a good 10 feet off the ground to give it a nice clear line of sight to the start and finish eyes. Signals don't like to penetrate stuff like cars and people :-) yagi antenna, also purchased from farmtek ($75-ish), for the finish line. I regularly need to place the finish a good 250+ feet from T&S.
The combo of the omni + yagi might be overkill, but that's a small price to pay to reduce false triggers.
How to do stuff
For everyone's reference:
Thank you for contacting us. We've been selling a Windows 10 compatible USB
to serial adapter for about four months now for the reasons detailed below.
The older cable and the drivers that are on our CD and website work fine
under Windows 10, however, Windows 10 periodically removes this working
driver and installs its own, non-working driver. Unfortunately, there is no
way to prevent Windows 10 from swapping out the driver since you can no
longer refuse software updates with Windows 10.
In other words, by forcing driver updates on the end user, Microsoft is
dictating the hardware devices you must buy to use with computers running
their software. Just as Microsoft wants, we have submitted to their
dominance and now sell a different USB cable that is compatible with the
driver that Windows 10 installs. The cable is US$15 plus shipping.
Alternatively, you can go to a local computer store, Best Buy, etc., and buy
a USB to Serial Adapter that is Windows 10 compatible.
Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks!